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Creating a landscape photographs (landscape Photography), the good tricky. Very beautiful scenery but why the photos can let you earn?. Do not blame the camera. Sophisticated camera equipment can not be guaranteed a person can make a good photograph. Here are some tips on how to make photographic images of attractive landscape


Try to think about landscape photos like a short story that has the opening (foreground / Foreground), middle (middle ground / background center), and the end (background / background). In a landscape of agricultural fields, for example, you can use the old railway as a foreground, winding dirt road as a middle ground, and a bright red barn as a backgroud. A farmer who was leading the horse can be a character or the main subject of your photo. (Remove the number of chickens in the vicinity if you need some supplementary subject.)

Very few landscapes seem organized at first sight, then your main task is to find a vantage point that can translate or communicate to the audience what an interesting picture of your eyes at the spectacle.

A landscape photograph should capture the spirit (the spirit) and the mood of a place. Even before you are aiming your lens to the target, think for a moment, ask yourself what seemed emotionally to you about two things that (spirit and mood). Does the yellow tinge of morning light in between menelusuk dry grass in the fields? Color, direction, quality, intensity of light all have an effect on the landscape. Or is it afternoon fog that hovered over the creek. The weather in all its forms works amazing even on a very common sight even

Here Here are some technical tips to make a good landscape photography, (adapted from an article in the forum kitafoto.com photographer)

RAW
Always use a form of RAW files, not the other. We certainly will be very happy if we can easily to modify the image using photo software. Therefore, the easiest thing if we want to modify a product image is to have a digital negative film. Negative film is digital RAW files.

Composition
Find the best location sebuat we like and we believe that it is the perfect place to create a landscape photograph. We have to find a location that really good for the composition which we must pay attention to the foreground of an object which we will take her picture. Without a good foreground, the background of the object is not interesting, although nothing as beautiful as the background.
Example:
We'll take a photo of the mountain landscape, where backgroundnya a few large yellow cloud. Maybe this picture is good enough, but it would be great if we add a few piles of stones in front of the mountain. That way, it will feel more complete in the composition of the picture where we also provide a good foreground.
Then, do not forget about the rules of composition in a photograph that is
Never put the main object ditengah2 frame images.
Why?
Because later will make a Dead Center on the image.
What is Dead Center? Hmm,. We try to explain to the next topic yes

Tripod
To take landscape photographs required a low ISO (50-100) to obtain low noise and excellent color saturation. However, low ISO also means slower shutter speed.
Well, to overcome a slow shutter speed, we ought to use a tripod, so that we produce images that will not shake (shake).
Tripod belom also wrote enough, we must determine the appropriate horizon position. Where is the horizon that we make should always be straight, not tilted to the left or right. If we are hard to make a straight horizon, we can use the plastic to the spirit level, the tools sebuat we attach to the hotsoe (holder Blitz) camera. That way, we will always get a straight horizon.

Filter
Okay, we're almost ready now
If we're ready, we push the shutter relase it, click. And, we already have a landscape photo. But once seen in the house? Loh kok? Really bright? Color of the sky are brighter than other colors? why is this??
The answer is a filter.
Why filter? Yes. We can use a neutral filter, klo good again we use a neutral density filter. We also could use circular polarising filter (CPL) which will get better results, because the lighting is flat and can eliminate the reflections caused by glass or water.


Aperture
To get the sharpness of images for all areas, use the aperture of F11 - F16, but depending on the camera that we use also ding: D
However, we still have to use the aperture under the F13 for a landscape photo in order to avoid diffraction images that are too soft.

Time
The best time to get a landscape photograph is at the "Golden Hour". When did that golden hour? Yes. Time approximately 30 minutes after sunrise or 30 minutes before sunset.
However, we also get a dramatic dark clouds or a large white cloud with a bright sky yangbiru.
Of course, we do have to make absolutely sure that when we use are appropriate.
Do not make landscape photographs in the middle of the day?
Why?
Heat bokk,. heheheh ..

Patience
Well, .. why this is we need?
Surely, we can not make good pictures with my wife when we are sullen in addition to asking home. disebalah friends already ngomel2 the heat and so forth.
We must take the time and meticulous. Where we have to see what kitaliat diviewfinder same object we will photograph.
We must consider the lighting in the picture so that the results we get really optimal.
The key is just one patient.

Camera
do u know to us a good camera?
Is that a good camera that will always be expensive?
Hmm,. My colleague once said, "in photography it was not a lie";)
What did it mean?
Yes, .. meaning of course we must use the appropriate camera or a good camera to get good results too.
Okey? Prepare everything, put all your gear into a bag, do not let anyone behind.

White balance
If you use RAW, (should) we do not have to worry about white balance settings on the camera. Because we can modify later using photo software.

Shutter Release
Use shutter relase cable or wireless shutter relase, to avoid the camera shake when taking photos.
Usually for a few cameras that "good" this enhancement sold, whether the third party or which are similar to camera brands.
If we do not have a shutter release, we can use the delay on the camera.

Last
Out of the house, look for a moment, and snap, snap,. snap! If not then when to take a landscape photograph? : D

Hopefully helpful!

After a long series of articles about the basic techniques of digital photography is not my updates on this blog, finally gatel well for posting: p. Previously we have discussed about the shutter speed, aperture and iso, and the terminology in photography.

Blitz or flash freely translated into the flash. This is one accessory that is widely used in the world of photography. Its main function is to illuminate (mencahayai / illuminated) objects to the lack of light exposure well. But later began expanding its use to produce artistic photographs. This article will discuss the basic knowledge required to use the flash correctly.


Using the flash is not merely a flash light, directing the camera and click and be a bright picture, but there are things we need to know for the sake of getting a good photographic work.

Blitz and GN (Guide Number)

To divide / classify blitz, there are several classifications that can be used. The first, based on the availability of the camera flash is divided into the built-in flash and external. Built-in flash from the camera itself while the external flash is a flash attached additional cables or hot shoe to the camera. In addition, we also can divide by the type / brand of camera.

We know the dedicated flash and non-dedicated flash. Dedicated flash flash is made specifically to use certain features within a specific camera. Usually the camera manufacturer-specific flash out also for the camera range and can use features such as TTL, slow sync or rear sync, etc.. While non-dedicated flash has the general functions of most of the camera alone and can be used regardless of the type / brand of camera. Flash this type usually require a lot of computation because the flash is already dedicated've got the information from the camera lighting so that does not require additional settings again.

There are also flash output power (GN) can be arranged and some are not able to (fixed GN). We'll tend to talk more about the flash non-dedicated, non-TTL, and fixed GN.

In using flash photography, we will not escape from the calculations related to the intensity of light reflected back from objects that we cahayai. Therefore, we will see what is often called the GN (Guide Number) or flash power. In short we can say if flashnya powerful, it will be one object with mencahayai lighter and can reach more distant objects.

GN is basically a simple calculation of flash power. There are 2 kinds of writing GN using a different calculation of unit m (meters) and feet (feet). Normally in Indonesia, we use the count to m. This is one of the considerations are also due to flash with the same strength, the number GN m and different feet away. In addition, GN is generally written for the use of film with ISO / ASA 100 and wide angle (35mm/24mm/20mm).

GN is a product of the distance from the opening (f / stop or aperture) in certain conditions (ISO / ASA 100/35mm/m or ISO / ASA 100/35mm/feet). For example, if we want to use flash to photograph a person standing at a distance of 5m from us using a 35mm lens and we want to use f/2.8 then we need to flash GN 14. Calculation commonly used is usually just find the right aperture for a particular blitz. For example, the GN 28 will flash to photograph the object is 5m that we will use f/5.6.

GN is only a guide for photographers. Not set in stone. Which affected a few. One of them is the ISO / ASA is used. Each 1-stop increase in ISO / ASA will cause GN increased by sqrt (2) or approximately 1.4 times (or the farthest distance multiplied by 1.4) and 2-stop improvement in ISO / ASA will cause GN increased 2 times (or the farthest distance multiplied by 2 ).

Indoor Flash

Blitz often even almost always used in the room. The reason is because in the room lighting is usually somewhat less bright light to produce images that can be seen. Indeed, there is a technique using a slow shutter speed to capture more light, but this usually causes a rather blurry picture because the cameraman's hand shake and the movement of people who want us to photograph. Therefore, we usually use a flash.

Its use is usually simple. We can set a digital camera on auto and let it do its work or it could be our own setting using the calculations done above. Not difficult. Only, there are some things we need to consider in order to get maximum results.

1. Do not take pictures of objects that are too close to the flash straight faced. Take for example the flash GN 20 which I think is adequate as an external flash for digital cameras in an indoor shooting in a room (not the hall). If we want to mention the shooting at a distance of 2 meters with ISO / ASA 200 then we need f/16 is not available in most of the PDC and will produce images over. Therefore, for the PDC / DSC are usually already have a built-in flash to TTL and has the GN rather small (8-12 on the part of the PDC, the Nikon 12-14). Use it instead of an external flash to objects rather close.

2. Combine flash with slow shutter speed to get the main object tercahayai well and has a background light sources are also well captured. This is a technique that's worth a try, and often produces a beautiful picture. Do not be afraid to use a low speed because the object that was subjected to flash will be recorded freeze (freeze).

3. When the room was quite dark, beware of the red-eye effect / red eye effect. This red-eye effect occurs because the pupils are dilated to familiarize yourself with the light but rather darkness suddenly startled a very bright light from the flash. If the camera and / or flash is pre-flash/red eye reduction facility, use it. If not, change the angle akali with a flash of light coming directly not to the eye.

4. In the room there was a strong light source like a spotlight. Avoid taking pictures with facing directly into the strong light source but want to get a silhouette that is not perfect (compensation under 1 to 2 stops for a good silhouette). In this case, use flash to fill in / illuminated object that you want photographed.

Bounce / diffuse

Flash is a source of very strong light. In addition, the flash is the light that comes from a small light source (narrow). Therefore, if the light is exposed directly to an object will cause harsh lighting (harsh). In most of the documentation photographs of personal consumption where officers documentation using point & shoot camera (film / digital) can be accepted. But in a higher level where the results of these photographs will become public consumption, hard path of light will give effect less unsightly. Plus this will usually cause a flash of light bleaching thing was a little white and cause certain details disappear.

There are several ways that we can do to avoid this in terms of softening the light:

1. Expanding the field came to light that is reflected into other areas (bounce).

2. Spreading the light coming from a small source is so widespread (diffuse).

Bounce flash is done by reflecting the flash into a broad field so that the light comes in a wider angle. We can use the ceiling or wall in the room. If the external flash mounted on a digital camera connected via hot shoe, then the flash should have a tilt facility to reflect light. If the synchro is connected via cable, then we can put flash on a bracket with a position facing upwards / sideways or hold such positions.

Reflect the correct position so the light falls exactly on the object is to confront these flash on the ceiling in the middle of the photographer / flash and the object.

Some things we need to consider the use of bounce flash is:

1. The distance to calculate the f / stop change is not a distance camera and the object, but turned into the distance traveled by the light flash. Normally at 45 ° tilt angle we will widen the aperture 1 stop and the tilt angle of 90 ° we widen the aperture by 2 stops. Surely this is only a brief guide. Depending on the technical implementation in the field.

2. Related to no. 1 above, the langit-langit/dinding distance should not be too far or it will be useless.

3. Always use a white reflective areas and dark. Color other than white will cause the color contaminated image and the dark color will absorb the light flash.

4. Note the appearance of the image can occur on the other side of light. For example, if we reflect on the ceiling we will get a shadow under the nose or chin and if we reflect at the wall on the left then there will be shadows on the right. To overcome this we can put a bounce card on the front of the flash so that when we reflect the light up / side we still have a light that is not too strong which leads to the front and neutralize shadow appears.

To take a photo in the vertical, would be easier if we use a cable connection because we can easily expose flash upward when using brackets or held. But if our connection is hot shoe flash then make sure we have a swivel head so the facility can we play is facing up. Even better if we have a flash that can be tilt and swivel. This will accommodate most of our needs.

Another way to soften the light is to expand dispersinya. How to use flash diffuser. Flash diffuser will spread the light out of the flash in all directions so that light does not come out hard. Special diffuser generally available for a particular flash head flash considering different. We can also make your own flash diffuser for us to use the various tools.

When we use a diffuser, we actually block certain areas of the light flash and turn it into another place. This reduces the power of flash that we use it. If we use a diffuser which is the result of buying, then we can read how much compensation we need aperture when calculating exposure. Usually found on the box or paper manual. If we decide to make your own, then we can perform the experiment many times to get the right numbers required to compensate other times.

Outdoor Flash

Brief if we think about using flash, then we'll know if it applies to an atmosphere of lack of light shooting. Therefore, we are not thinking about the need for flash in outdoor photography (during the day, of course) because the sun was very bright. This is where our mistake begins. Flash is required to shoot outdoors, especially on:

1. Condition object back to the sun. In these conditions, the camera meter will think the atmosphere was light enough so it will cause the object to be photographed the dark / under strong light such as a waste because it is not reflected by the object. How to outsmart is to fill in on an object so that even though the setting is very bright but still get the light objects.
2. The sun is above the heavens. This will cause the image appears on the bottom of the nose and chin. Use a flash to eliminate them. To soften the light using bounce card or diffuser.
3. Objects are in the open shade (shadow). Flash is used to obtain the same lighting on the overall image of the object because it will make the dark shades of different parts of objects much less a human face.
4. The sky was blue and seductive. If we are not tempted by the blue sky and willing to get pictures of white sky when shooting outdoors so please do the metering on the object without using a flash or with flash. If we are willing to object as long as the lack of light blue sky please do the metering on the sky. Well, if we want to keep the blue sky and object tercahayai well, use the metering on the sky and fill flash on the object. This will produce the right mix and right.
5. The sky was overcast. When the sky was overcast, do not hesitate to use the flash because the effect would be the same cloud as if we were under the shadow.

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